Mt. Pumori is perhaps the most popular mountain among mountains over 7000 m it is not deemed to be severely technically difficult nevertheless it does present a fairly significant challenge. Many people say that a climb of Pumori is an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000 m peaks including the Mt Everest. Mount Pumori is situated 8 km west of Mount Everest along the Nepal-Tibet Border. The first climb of the mountain was made in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team, the name Pumori means an unmarried daughter in the Sherpa language. Although a 7,000 plus meter peak it is as mentioned somewhat technically challenging in places and there are large sections where the climber is open to wild and exposed conditions.The rewards from the summit are special, some stunning views of the peaks around including Lhotse and Everest.
We attempt to summit via the standard route on the South East Ridge The peak straddles the Nepalese-Tibetan border. To begin with the southeast buttress in its lower reaches needs to be negotiated before traversing open snow-slopes to get to a Col to the East Ridge. Pumori is a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. We follow the route along the South-East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the base camp.Base camp is set up at 5300 m. then on through the glaciers for around four hours to reach Camp 1 at around 5700 m. From Camp 1 we continue up to climb a face that varies in gradient from forty to sixty degrees on through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200 m. From camp two we climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at around 6480 m. Then a push up through crevasses to climb up to Pumori cliff and then on to the summit.
Pumori is situated among some of the world’s best-known mountains and most spectacular scenery.The route is mixed and varied but while challenging at times the climb is not of high technical difficulty. We’ll establish as mentioned at least three camps above base camp fixing ropes when necessary. You need to be a strong and experienced climber to attempt Pumori and often the mountain is used as a training ground for more technical peaks in the future.