Ama Dablam is known as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas” it is perhaps the most attractive peak that can be clearly seen on the trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp. Resembling a giant pyramid of ice-coated granite Ama Dablam means The Mother’s Jewel Box and it is considered to be a holy mountain.When a team led by Sir Edmund Hillary climbed on to the mountain Nepal’s King nearly imprisoned him for climbing it without permission.
The standard ascent to Ama Dablam is made via the South-Western Ridge the same route followed the first ascent of the mountain in 1961. The route offers a varied and sustained climb with a reasonable level of technical difficulty. Three high camps are set up on the way. The climb is not so difficult to Camp 1 but after Camp 1 it becomes more challenging when having to climb up and along a narrow granite ridge. Negotiating pitches of steep ice and snow slopes the route gets more technical from Camp 2. From Camp 3 climbers need to skirt around the hanging glacier or the Dablam, cross over a sharp ridge then over a crevasse set between ice cliffs and then on to the summit.It would be hard to find a more beautiful mountain in Nepal. Located to the south of Everest and Lhotse it is characterized by its vertical walls and sharp exposed ridges.